Questions and Answers

Our goal is to put our best-selves forward in the service of energy-transition, specializing in batteries and battery-related projects. Saying we “put our best-selves forward” means we try to model honesty, integrity, and foster win-win situations. We welcome honest feedback on our FAQs, or any other matter.

We sell and lease 36V, 48V and 72V Lithium Ion and Lithium Iron Phosphate batteries, chargers, and related accessories.

We consult on, design and build Lithium-related projects (within limits – no refurbishing power-tool battery packs). BA is researching cold-weather Lithium batteries, however these are not for sale. In the future, expect to hear more from us on Lithium Titanate Batteries (LTO).

We are 100% Canadian-owned, but prefer to consider ourselves citizens of the world, (and govern-ourselves accordingly). That said, our goal is to demonstrate and foster innovation – especially local partnerships – we want to see other companies take advantage of and see the Lithium eco-system grow to include battery manufacturing.

Our batteries are made from A Grade Lithium Ion and Lithium Iron-Phosphate cells shipped from China. Don’t be fooled if you think any other batteries are not! “Made in Canada” (or the USA) means they were assembled here, with no guarantee of quality. BA batteries are generally less costly than other high-quality Lithium Iron-Phosphate batteries, and what we offer in addition is local supply, service, selection, knowledge, and expertise.

Ninety-Nine percent of all the LiFePO4 cells available in Canada are manufactured in China. China has been manufacturing them for a very long time. There are good cells and bad cells, but the good ones are GOOD.

We are headquartered in Calgary, Alberta, Canada providing in-person and online wholesale/retail sales and leasing of Lithium Golf Cart batteries and a few chosen Accessories. Contact us to discuss your needs.

Recognizing there is a need for local sales and service across Canada, BA is actively pursuing strategic partnerships.

1. Local Suppliers: If you are in an industry for which Lithium batteries are in demand, or a solution. If you customize golf-carts, for example, Lithium batteries are an option you and your customers should consider. Contact us to build an association that fits your needs.
2. Local Installers: We recognize there is a need for Local Installers. We began forming partnerships at RV Parks, Lakeside Resorts, and Summer Villages. Traditionally, there is one person who (formally/informally) services golf carts, RVs and/or boats in these areas, we would like to work with you to provide a better battery solution (and make some money too!).
3. BA Associates: We are partnering with reputable local golf cart companies to deliver, install and manage the No-CAP Fleet Battery Leasing Program.

The State of Charge is how full your battery is (from 0-100%). Sometimes, the State of Charge (not just “full” or “empty”) is important: for example, you don’t ever want to drain even a deep-cycle Lead-Acid battery below 50% SOC. Sadly, the “fuel” gauge for a non-Lithium battery does not accurately measure State of Charge, it is really just a volt-meter; the needle will drop dramatically when you go up a hill (draw a bunch of power), then back up again.

Amp-Hours (amps times hours) are used to compare battery capacity (i.e.: a 105Ah 12V battery has almost double the capacity of a 56Ah 12V one). See our Tech Sheets and Technical Questions below for more info, but for comparison's-sake, you can replace an “X” Ah deep-cycle Lead-Acid battery with a Lithium battery of X/3 Ah (one-third the rated capacity of what you have now).

This is because 1) they can be discharged to almost 0% capacity without damaging them, and 2) are about 98% efficient instead of 85% (Lead-Acid).

Keeping this very simple, the BMS is a system of electronic devices built into, or added externally which help extend battery life, protecting it and whatever it is hooked up to from damage. A BMS should:

1. Provide an accurate State of Charge reading

2. Keep all of the cells in your battery at an equal State of Charge (cell-balancing)

3. Monitor and protect your battery from overcharge and over-discharge

4. Monitor and protect your battery from currents and voltages which will cause damage

5. Monitor and protect against extremes of temperature

6. Provide a fail-safe in case the battery-disconnect switch fails (a one-time fuse)

A LEAD-ACID BATTERY HAS NONE OF THESE.

In other-words, “I’ve heard how great lithium is, but what do I say to my wife/boss/partner?” Like most things in life, you get what you pay for, and Lithium is a really smart buy. Continue reading for details, however you win environmentally, financially, on performance, and ease-of-ownership. If you might want to sell your cart after 5-years, aaLithium adds significant value. The it will unquestionably still be in good shape, while your Lead-Acid batteries will be a liability.

Battery: A battery is made up of individual cells connected together to store the energy needed to run electrical items. There are too many types of batteries to list and describe all of them. Contact us if you have a specific question. Below is a summary of the battery types mentioned on the BA website:

Lithium Battery: EitIer Lithium Ion, or Lithium Iron Phosphate (LiFePO4): High-Quality Lithium batteries have been commercially-available for more than 10 years. They are strong, safe, inexpensive, and easily provide 15 years of service. Lithium Iron Phosphate batteries are so stable, it is not uncommon in DIY (Do-It-Yourself) circles to run them without a Battery Management System (!), but there is always some risk – and this is not recommended. Lithium-Ion batteries are slightly better-performing, but more tempermental, and they do contain Cobalt.

Lithium-Ion: Lithium-Ion batteries are what are generally used in electric cars. Also referred to as NMC (or NCM) batteries, the negative terminal contains nickel, manganese, cobalt (and other things) to reduce weight and provide high current for short periods of time. The downside is they are more expensive than Lithium Iron Phosphate, and temperamental – including being subject to thermal-runaway. Therefore Lithium-Ion requires a more intensive Battery Management System. You can expect a Lithium-Ion battery to last 10-years.

Lead-Acid: There are too many types of Lead-Acid battery to mention, however the most common are Flooded Lead-Acid (FLA – think car-battery). The main advantage of flooded Lead-Acid is low initial-cost, and for Lead-Acid in general, the ability to provide high-currents (to start an engine). Although performance is severely-reduced, Lead-Acid batteries can be used in the winter without preheating. In contrast to all Lithium chemistries, Flooded Lead-Acid batteries in particular require regular maintenance, are approximately four-times heavier, and three-times larger. For a comparison of Lithium and Lead-Acid batteries, see our Tech Sheets.

Lithium Titanate (LTO): LTO batteries are amazing. Uniquely for Lithium, they have excellent performance in cold weather, exceeding Lead-Acid by far. They also have the ability to provide very high currents, and therefore can be smaller for starting applications. LTO is about twice as heavy as Lithium Ion, but less than half of Lead-Acid, and will easily last 20 or 30 years. Used for military-type applications, until recently Lithium Titanate was very expensive, but is now available at a lower price. LTO does not contain cobalt.

Operation: Lithium batteries can deliver the same amount of power from “full” all the way down to “empty,” and don’t mind doing it. Lead-Acid batteries are less-efficient (especially when it is cold), and while they might operate “okay” at the time, it is especially bad for their total-life to drain even a “deep-cycle” Lead-Acid battery below 50% SOC.

Charging: There is not much difference at all in charging them, except Lithium batteries will charge in less than half the time, except when it is below freezing.

Storage: Probably most premature Lead-Acid failures happen because of improper storage, and it happens a lot. Lithium shines here! If you buy the right Lithium battery, just turn it OFF and walk-away for the whole winter.

Lifetime: For the same application, you can expect your Lithium battery will last 3-times as long as conventional Flooded Lead-Acid.

Maintenance: For FLA (Flooded Lead-Acid), this requires vigilance, takes time, and mistakes often contribute to shortened battery-life. Lithium Batteries require NO maintenance!

Size and Weight: Lithium batteries are about one-quarter the weight and one-third the size of Lead-Acid. Really. So, your cart goes faster, or you can house more capacity within a limited space, such as on a boat, or in an RV.

Cost: Replacing Lead-Acid with its equivalent in Lithium is generally 1.5 - 2 times the investment, or you can lease them from us. Our batteries do not require the purchase of a new Lithium Charger, so that will save $400-$700.

Lithium batteries will brush-off the winter without needing to be charged or brought inside, but need to be above -4C before you can charge them. Thus, they are ideal for golf carts, boats, quads, RVs, forklifts etc… and to a certain extent, off-grid solar. With ten-years of use, even LiFePO4 batteries will be at 80% - 90% of their original capacity. Interestingly, they also exceed the performance of Lead-Acid batteries in hot climates, where Lead-Acid degrades rapidly, and may only last two-years!

For now, you are stuck with the Lead-Acid in your car (unless you don’t use it in the winter). But there is a new Lithium chemistry BA is exploring (Lithium Titanate) which has all of the advantages of LiFePO4, while by far exceeding Lead-Acid in the winter as well. Check our website for periodic updates, or contact us to have a custom Lithium Titanate battery made.

There are many, and that is what is so exciting. For example, the batteries used for emergency-power in buildings are (expensive) Lead-Acid. They do virtually nothing, and are typically replaced every three years. Lithium makes things possible which were not possible before, such as e-bikes, cordless lawnmowers and snow-blowers. There are several exciting innovations BA is working-on, and we would like to hear your ideas too!

A single 56Ah 48V Lithium battery will normally replace the Lead-Acid batteries in your golf cart. Within a year or so, the Lithium will not have changed much, and your Lead-Acid batteries will be on their way down, especially in the cold (see our Tech Sheets for why Lead-Acid is so inferior). You will not quite have the same range as brand new Lead-Acid, but for most people, it is more than enough. Depending-upon the motor in your cart (AC motors are much more efficient), you will have 20 to 35 km range, and more “zip” because they do not suffer the voltage-sag Lead-Acid does with acceleration (or on hills), plus the cart is now 300+ pounds lighter! For a DC cart, if your normal usage is less than 15km/day (more than two rounds of golf), or if it is a newer, AC-powered cart, less than 25 km (EVERY day), your 56Ah battery will still be going strong after 10 years, and should last 15 years with no maintenance, no problems.

Yes, if you are a little handy, you can, and most people do. There are plenty of Videos on You Tube, and a lot of people us them as a guide. The hardest part is getting the old batteries out!

The smaller CANLiFe batteries are the same size as your existing Lead-Acid, so very simple.

For the Eco Batteries it is also very simple, but you will need a drill and a 2 1/8” hole saw to install the guage in the dash.

There is one version of the Club Car (with 4x12V batteries) which is not that easy, but so long as you can lift the old ones out, that is the worst part.

The State of Charge (SOC) Meter comes with every battery. We also sell a number of useful Accessories (see Page).

Yes, we or one of our local Installers can do it for you, no-problem. Most will charge $200 - $300, as it also means taking the old Lead-Acid batteries out. In some cases, we will come to you for another hundred dollars (it is kind-of a two-man job, as holding the nut for the bracket under the bottom of the cart while tightening the bolt at the top is tricky, to say the least).

We will take-away your old lead-acid batteries, or you can keep them.

It depends. We can re-program some Chargers, and if not offer a few choices, depending upon how fast you need to charge.

Some Lead-Acid Chargers will ‘work’ however not to the exact right voltage, and if there was every a problem, this would void your warranty.

No it will-not, however you will get an even better one! Every battery comes with a gauge, and some also work via bluetooth. We have tested them, and they are accurate, whereas the Lead-Acid ones are not; they only estimate the remaining capacity based upon voltage, which varies from minute to minute depending upon what you are doing with the cart.

The answer is pretty-much, “No.” but read-on just in case.

If you already have 12V accessories such as lights, or a music system, your cart should already have a 48V-12V Voltage Reducer, which you just hook up across the main positive and negative terminals. BUT: it is important to look just in case, as it is possible you do not have one; another (cheap) way to run accessories is to draw power from one 12V or two 8V batteries only, which is not a good practice, as it places an unequal load on the set. In this case, a Voltage Reducer is required for around $100.

See Technical Questions for what not to do. Lithium is really robust, and it must be emphasized, they do not need to be pampered. But there is no need to cause unnecessary degradation if it can be avoided! So, here are some tips for maximizing the life of your battery (20-years!):

The MAIN thing is to buy the right-size battery for your application. Then, most of the issues below will then take care of themselves:

1. Unless you have a Big Battery, don’t buy a Big Charger “just because it is faster.” Charging is continuous – the heat builds-up-and-up – and charging faster means more heat, which in this case reduces the life of your battery (a fair bit). Plus, Chargers are expensive! Your existing Lead-Acid Charger is probably in the 10-15A range, which is fine. And don’t forget: Lithium batteries charge 2x faster as well. Twenty Amps is still okay, and within spec (a lot of golf courses use 20A chargers).
2. Avoid high and low States of Charge (SOC) for extended periods of time. This means don’t regularly drain your battery to below 10-20% and leave it for two weeks, or – conversely – avoid leaving it fully-charged for long periods, like two weeks. BUT it is fine to plug it in overnight for the next day, or in a few days, all the time. Purchase your battery such that under normal conditions, you have a bit of “juice” left in your tank at the end of the day, then plug it in for tomorrow. This is common-sense; a bit of a safety-factor is what you should aim for, or one day you will be walking home (hopefully not in the rain).
3. Don’t overstress your batteries by drawing too much power from them. Unless you are running up and down a mountain/racing your cart, or hauling a heavy load all of the time, you will be fine. A properly-sized LiFePO4 battery has the balance of capacity and power for this not to be an issuepecs . Here’s why: if you do overdraw from them, they will get hot (although the Battery Management System will turn off your battery if you try to draw too-much current). Heat causes unwanted chemical reactions which accumulate – this is what “battery degradation” is. Size the battery for the capacity/range you need, and the power will be there with no issue.

This has been covered briefly elsewhere, but needs to be expanded-upon. In addition to not leaving them at 100% for long periods in the summer, the same goes for the winter. Leave them outside no matter how cold, no problem. But to maximize their life, don’t leave them at 100%. Fifty percent. Really?? Yes. Why? Unlike Lead-Acid, Lithium batteries self-discharge extremely-slowly (15% per month for Lead-Acid vs 1-3% for Lithium), so you don’t need to store them at 100%, and you shouldn’t. As soon as Lead-Acid batteries are below 100%, they start to build-up Lead-Sulfate on the plates, which damages them, so for Lead-Acid, always keep them plugged-in. Lithium suffers some LOSS of life when left fully-charged for long periods, but much, much less. So, you don’t need to leave them at 100%, you don’t need to plug them in, and a fifty-percent charge is perfect. For more on battery-life, see Technical Questions, below.

There is one step not mentioned so far for winter-storage: turning the battery OFF. That is all you have to do: leave the battery at 40 - 60%, push the button on the side or use the Bluetooth, and walk away - confident. You can leave the battery ON for a month or two and it might drop a few percent (we have done it), but over the winter, turn it OFF. What you don’t have to do is: disconnect them, clean the terminals, neutralize any acid-spills, check and fill the water (distilled water), keep them plugging-in, or go out and recharge them over the winter, heat the building they are in (heaven-forbid, bring them inside), or anything-else. Come back in the Spring, and they will still be at 30-50%.

Yes, it will, a little, as you are replacing almost 400lbs of Lead-Acid batteries with either 73 or 103lbs of Lithium battery. But we have not received any reports or concerns from users, so not enough to worry-about. However, if you already drive on a lot of steep terrain, then maybe you already worry. If-so, we have recognized this problem exists for all golf carts, and have come-up with a solution: the Driver Alert Tilt-Alarm! See Driver-Alert Tilt Alarm, below.

1. High Current: As one can imagine, perhaps the most harmful thing you can do to a battery is short-out the terminals - something is going to blow! But why?? Heat. Luckily, there will be plenty of heat, light and melting of metal outside of the battery as well, so we know to avoid this. But you might not have even thought about the heat generated inside the battery. Even if you don't short them out, drawing too much power out of a battery for long periods of time is also very bad because they will heat-up, and unwanted chemical reactions occur which shorten the life and reduce the capacity of your battery. But how much is too much??

   Although we are talking about power, think current, as follows: the rating of your battery (in Amp-Hours) is called one "C." It is the current required to drain (or charge) a battery in one hour. Any current over 2C for more than a minute or so (3C for CANLiFe) is going to start to heat it up. So, 3C (4C) is not good, althought its' okay occasionally, like going up a steep hill. Drawing high currents won’t change much right-away, but your battery performance and life will be reduced by quite a bit (years). For a 56Ah battery (C=56 Amps in this case), this would mean routinely drawing more than roughly 200 Amps, which is pretty-much hot-dogging in a souped-up cart, roaring up a hill on a mountain golf course, operating a multi-passenger cart, or hauling a water-tank. In that case, you would purchase a 105Ah battery, which is quite happy at those current levels. A normal golf cart won’t go above 200A often, if ever. As long as you are happy with the range of your battery, normal use will not damage it, and it will last worry-free at least 3x as long as your Lead-Acid.

   In case you are wondering about a worst-case scenario, the battery management system has three settings, and will disconnect if the current exceeds the safe threshold 1) for more than one second, 2) 10 seconds and 3) 30 seconds. lf there is a dead-short, it will disconnect in a fraction of a second, give you a chance to think about it, and if you push the ON button again, hopefully the situation has changed.... If the electronics fails inside your battery, there is a physical fuse which will blow permanently, to prevent what is known as “rapid-unscheduled-disassembly.”

2. Improper Storage: Lithium batteries can be left at virtually any temperature we are likely to encounter here, but prefer to stay cool, so keep that in mind. Also, you will reduce the life of your batteries by perhaps 10% if you leave them fully-charged all the time, especially for long periods. Charge your battery if you need to and if you don’t use it for a couple of days, no-problem, but if you are going away for a week, try not to leave it full. 40-60% charge is ideal. Don’t sweat-it (these are tough batteries), but just don’t make a habit of leaving your cart plugged-in, like you would with Lead-Acid.

   Yes, this is different than for Lead-Acid batteries, which are only happy when fully-charged (or start they “sulfating” – building-up Lead-Sulfide deposits). Lead-Acid will self-discharge if left for a couple of months, suffer damage, and also freeze in the winter, which effectively kills them. Lead-Acid batteries will self-discharge at around 15%/month (it varies a lot with temperature), whereas, LiFePO4 goes down by about 3% per month, and LESS in cold-weather. Over the winter, leave your Lithium at 40-60%, not more (and the colder it is, the better). We just received some batteries which were manufactured in August, 2020. They are charged to 50% in the factory, and a year later, are still at 20-30%

   Lithium batteries are similar to Lead-Acid in that they also don’t like to be left fully-discharged. This is REALLY bad for Lead-Acid batteries, but a lot less-so for Lithium batteries. As-above, don’t worry about it too much, but be aware, and don’t make a habit of it. LiFePO4 in particular (vs Lithium-Ion) is tough. Also, for ECO Lithium (but not for cheaper Lithium batteries), when the capacity meter says it is at 0%, the Battery Management System will stop supplying current to protect the cells from damage. The battery actually still has 10% or so capacity. This is also different from Lead-Acid, where there is no protection, and your battery will drain down to the point where it cannot even run your lights, and never be the same. So, because of the built-in protection, as long as you charge your batteries up again fairly soon, you would have to do that many times before degrading the batteries more than 1%.

This has been covered briefly elsewhere, but needs to be expanded-upon. In addition to not leaving them at 100% for long periods in the summer, the same goes for the winter. Leave them outside no matter how cold, no problem. But to maximize their life, don’t leave them at 100%. Fifty percent. Really?? Yes. Why? Unlike Lead-Acid, Lithium batteries self-discharge extremely-slowly (15% per month for Lead-Acid vs 1-3% for Lithium), so you don’t need to store them at 100%, and you shouldn’t. As soon as Lead-Acid batteries are below 100%, they start to build-up Lead-Sulfate on the plates, which damages them, so for Lead-Acid, always keep them plugged-in. Lithium suffers some LOSS of life when left fully-charged for long periods, but much, much less. So, you don’t need to leave them at 100%, you don’t need to plug them in, and a fifty-percent charge is perfect. For more on battery-life, see Technical Questions, below.

There is one step not mentioned so far for winter-storage: turning the battery OFF. That is all you have to do: leave the battery at 40 - 60%, push the button on the side or use the Bluetooth, and walk away - confident. You can leave the battery ON for a month or two and it might drop a few percent (we have done it), but over the winter, turn it OFF. What you don’t have to do is: disconnect them, clean the terminals, neutralize any acid-spills, check and fill the water (distilled water), keep them plugging-in, or go out and recharge them over the winter, heat the building they are in (heaven-forbid, bring them inside), or anything-else. Come back in the Spring, and they will still be at 30-50%.

No, not likely. If these batteries suit your needs, anything new which comes along will be very expensive and the bugs won’t be worked-out (early versions of Lithium Iron Phosphate and Lithium-Ion batteries were also not the best). The LiFePO4 and Lithium-Ion have been around for over 10-years and are proven, relatively inexpensive, and although in very-high demand, they are available. The world loves them. They are so far superior to Flooded Lead-Acid that there is no reason to wait.

As mentioned elsewhere BA is building batteries using a relative-newcomer Lithium chemistry proven for extreme cold-weather applications, however at 2-3x the price of our current offerings, more suited for critical-applications such as remote, critical infrastructure, and emergency power.

Like a lot of products coming out of China, there are bad batteries too – these are Grade-B cells, or even C-Grade. What does this mean? When the cells are manufactured, they are tested, sorted, and graded accordingly. The most important flaw which will affect your battery is the internal resistance. If you want to know if the batteries you are buying are any good, ask what Grade the cells are, and for the “AC internal resistance per cell.” It should be 0.6 or 0.7 (milli-ohms per cell). If they can’t convincingly tell you either of these, run. Grades B and C can have any of eight random flaws which could contribute to premature failure, and will not be matched for internal resistance. This will affect the life of your battery, and is why they are so cheap.

A Lithium battery much cheaper than the ECO Batteries is NOT made from Grade-A cells (a tell-tale sign is a 2- or 3-year warranty), and will not likely last much more than 5 years. You also need to have a multi-level built-in Battery Management System, a State of Charge display (because the old one will no longer work), and a button to turn the battery OFF (see Battery Storage). We are seeing a lot of cheaper batteries advertised and we recommend you stay away from them.

If you need batteries, want to save money (and the environment), go-easy, go Lithium. And whether you buy them from us or not, it is pretty-much impossible to purchase a LiFePO4 battery for which the cells did not come from China. They got-in early, and went big; just be cautious. The bad cells are not good value.

Lithium Titanate (LTO): We are constantly innovating and promoting clean-technology. Lithium Titanate is a very promising (and proven) battery chemistry until-now very expensive, and pretty-much only available for military applications. Although still more expensive (and bigger) than the equivalent in LiFePO4, Lithium Titanate shines because it has :

1. An extremely-long life (30 years),
2. The ability to produce very high currents, and
3. Exceed the performance of all other batteries in extreme cold-weather applications.

We now have our first contract to build Lithium Titanate batteries for cell phone towers, and are looking for additional Partners for Pilot Projects, including their use as starter-batteries.

Alberta is well-positioned to produce Lithium right here, and we should be building our own batteries – LTO batteries. We have great confidence in LTO, and are dedicating significant effort to proving them for ourselves and our customers. This will hopefully lay some of the groundwork to justify producing LTO cells right here.

Bipolar Lead-Acid (BPLA): Without getting into all of the details of the design, BPLA batteries (arriving soon) are touted as a big step-up from all other types of Lead-Acid batteries, in terms of cost, energy-density, power-density, longevity, and lifetime. Currently unavailable commercially, and with data available only down to -20C, we will see how they perform in our own vehicles this winter, and will rigorously document their performance in the Battery Lab down to -70C.

We have developed the Battery Wizard as a means of recording, and thus verifying battery-use (voltage, current, temperature and time) for customers who would like to extend the manufacturer’s warranty, or lease batteries for more than five years. Combined with the Tilt-Alarm, it becomes The Cart Sentinel - providing in addition the ability to wirelessly monitor battery-use and capacity via an “App.” Other features such as State of Health and range estimation are in development (see Battery Leasing).

If you ever drive in steep terrain, this should interest you. We have developed a Tilt-Alarm with a large tri-colour LED and buzzer to ensure the occupants stay safe. When the situation is becoming dangerous, it provides a warning via a yellow light on the dash, with intermittent audible alarm. When the cart exceeds safe-driving parameters, (a flashing red light, along with a continuous alarm), we can configure them so the cart stops when the Alarm goes red for more than one second, then either turns back on after the cart is back in a safe position, or stays off. The person driving the cart will then have to call for help.

Installation requires power via the key-switch and a 119mm hole for the LED on the dash.

Yes, you can lease them for up to ten years, reducing up-front cost. Leasing for more than five-years requires the installation of a battery-monitoring device (the “Battery Wizard”). Find out more about Battery Advancement Leasing.

The Manufacturer’s Warranty is a guarantee against defects, and greater than 80% capacity, pro-rated for 5-years. We have heard when RoyPow was first introduced, some problems showed-up with the OFF button, but these have been fixed. The longevity of the actual cells is long-proven. Of the hundreds of batteries we are aware of, there have only been two warranty replacements – at no charge.

Based upon industry-wide and personal experience, we are very confident our batteries will last 10 years, and so offer an extended-warranty of 10 years (at or above 80% of rated capacity), with the caveat a Battery Wizard is installed. Of-course if you lease the batteries, they are automatically warrantied for the period of the lease.

Yes, We try to keep them up to date, and apologize in advance for any changes. Price Sheet

If we do not have a Distributor in your area, we will ship them and provide detailed information on installation. For orders of two batteries or more, we send them as Freight, and the price is likely to be about $200 in Western Canada. Single batteries are shipped by FedEx. The minimum cost for shipping is $100, and in general, expect the price to be closer to $200 for a single battery via FedEx. When you are ready to purchase a battery, our shipping calculator will provide the actual amount.